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The Guardian - Life & Style • Feb. 3, 2026, 11 a.m.
The pie and mash crisis: can the original fast food be saved?
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There used to be hundreds of pie and mash shops in London. Now there are barely more than 30.
Can social media attention and a push for protected status ensure their survival? Outside it’s raining so hard that the sandwich board sign for BJ’s pie and mash (“All pies are made on the premises”) is folded up inside.
The pavement along Barking Road in Plaistow is a blur through the front windows and deserted, and there are only two customers in the shop. Another sign – this one on the counter – says “CASH ONLY”.
Can social media attention and a push for protected status ensure their survival? Outside it’s raining so hard that the sandwich board sign for BJ’s pie and mash (“All pies are made on the premises”) is folded up inside.
The pavement along Barking Road in Plaistow is a blur through the front windows and deserted, and there are only two customers in the shop. Another sign – this one on the counter – says “CASH ONLY”.
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